I let the poor girl buff the dry belt edges for some hours and she worked very hard with not much results. That reminds me of an apprentice I had years ago. Moisten the edges and buff them up before, so that there isn't any fibres sticking up and the edge is somewhat slick enough. The edge cote works wonderfully but you can't apply it directly to a rough edge. I made very good experience with furniture polish containing shellac. You will get a shiny edge that you can protect with a thin cote of shellac or similar. It is important to do the buffing while the dye hasn't dried entirely. After that apply carefully some Fiebigs alcohol dye and buff the edge wit a soft cloth. In that case moisten the edge with a sponge and rub always in the same direction with a corse rag (denim is best). Should I be exploring another possibility? This is essentially for the very purpose of painting on a leather and then ensuring it never (or at least, not soon) rubs off.ДЄll depends on the leather. Would something like this work on top of a waxed surface? I have obtained two kinds of acrylic 'sealer' but I haven't yet had a chance to test it out. What do you use to ensure that paint does not rub off. I see some of you use hand-painting techniques in your cordwaining, especially on cowboy boots. Am I just not burnishing the edges enough? When I tried using things like the Edge Kote it seemed like it was nothing more than a simple dye. I've seen some belts with an almost rubbery edge on them, like a polyurethane, but that almost seems cheap to me. Sometimes those surfaces happen to be white shirts, which is a big problem. I tried using the Fiebing's Edge Kote on the edges of my belts, but even with buffing, it rubs off on surfaces when some moisture is present. I am currently making belts and am having some issues with lack of experience with the best materials to use.

If you send me those awls.along with a small fee of $143.00.I will put on the old asbestos gloves and the flare mask and get rid of these dangerous materials for you.Дo it soon though, Ed. I inherited that equipment when he died about 15 years ago. Unfortunately, The ORC was shut down by the Nixon administration and the facilities to dispose of such lethal by-products were auctioned off.ДЇortunately.for you.my father, who was a metallurgical engineer for the US Bureau of Mines and specialized in experimental ore processing, developed a small scale, high temperature kiln for just this purpose. Just having them in your house can cause birth defects and arthritis and wrinkled skin. NRA stands for Niobium Radiation Accumulate and NCO stands for Nitro-Carbon Oxalosuccinate.which is a highly dangerous acid formed during the Krebs cycle. You are very lucky! Those awls were supposed to have been disposed of by the Oak Ridge Energy Commission back in the early 50's. do a 'keyword' search for Pilgrim and the address and phone number will pop up somewhere in ther. Pilgrim Shoe Machinery should have blades for the five-in-one, the Landis 30 and probably the American splitter, as well. That's my story and (I've actually seen the strap cutting guide mounted on a five-in-one) I'm sticking to it. The five functions.as I understand it.of the Five-in-one are as follows: 1] leather splitter (limited to straps mostly), 2] strap cutter (it used to come with an adjustable guide that slid inside the arm), 3] sole cutter, 4] sole skiver, and 5] welt press. This question has plagued shoemakers since time out of mind. One of the board members of the HCC and one of the moderators of the forum is a harness maker at Colonial Williamsburg. First off.if it hasn't been said before.welcome to the Crispin Colloquy.

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